Butter, onion, tomato sauce
25 Tuesday Oct 2011
My general approach to tomato sauce is simple: I wing it.
After years of watching my parents throw basic ingredients into a pot and letting it simmer for an hour or two to create a hearty and rich tomato sauce, and even more years of making it from scratch on my own – owing to a perhaps unnatural love of pasta – I don’t give too much thought to cooking up a decent red sauce.
I’m a big believer in the long-simmered sauce with a multitude of ingredients that all come together over a slow heat, melding and marrying into something that is so much greater as a whole than the sum of its parts.
But I can also turn around a very basic sauce in 15 minutes.
At the very least, my spaghetti sauce usually has garlic and diced onions, sauted in olive oil with a generous pinch of salt, canned plum tomatoes I roughly (and gently, using a butter knife) chop in my hand over the pot, fresh basil if I can get my hands on it, a little sprinkle of sugar if the whole mix is too acidic, and a Parmesan heel, which I stash in my freezer for just such occasions.
So, it takes an unusual tomato sauce recipe to catch my eye.
Like this one. It has three ingredients. (OK, four, if you count salt, which, in general, I don’t, since almost all recipes call for salt.)
Canned tomatoes. A yellow onion. Butter.
Marcella Hazan’s recipe for tomato sauce with butter and onion has made appearances over the years on various food blogs I follow.
Each time I saw it, I thought I really should remember to give that a try.
And then I’d forget about it until someone else posted their love of this simple yet rich dish.
This seemed like a great weeknight dinner recipe since there is minimal fuss. No chopping or dicing, sweating or sauteing.
You dump it all into the pot, let it come to a simmer, reduce the heat, and go about things. In this case, a little laundry, some tidying and things that allowed for a quick wander past the pot to give the tomatoes a stir and squish against the side with a wooden spoon.
At the end of 45 minutes, all it needed was a small pinch of salt and to be dolloped over a nest of noodles.
Some have suggested sprinkling on Parmesan, but I opted not to. The sauce is rich and tasty without adornment, which is sort of the beauty of it.
The butter adds an almost unidentifiable creaminess and mellows out the acidity of the tomatoes.
And, luckily, such an easy recipe is simple enough that in the future I can pretty much wing it.
Marcella Hazan’s Tomato Sauce
This was adapted from Hazan’s The Essentials of Classic Italian Cooking by way of several food blogs. Since there are only three ingredients, I do recommend using San Marzano or San Marzano-style canned tomatoes, which are packed in tomato puree instead of water and have, therefore, a greater tomato flavour. You can find Marzano-style tomatoes in most grocery stores these days.
- 1 28-oz (796-mL) can of whole tomatoes
- 5 tbsp (75 mL) butter
- 1 medium yellow onion, peeled and halved
- 1 lb (500 g) spaghetti
- salt to taste, if needed
Put the tomatoes, butter and onion in a pot over medium heat. Once the butter is melted, stir to combine, then reduce the heat to low or medium low – depending on how hot your element is; you’re looking for a slow but steady simmer – and cook for about 45 minutes. Stir occasionally, squishing the tomatoes against the side of the pot.
Cook pasta according to package instructions.
Remove sauce from heat, discard the onion and taste. Add salt if needed. Serve over cooked pasta.